Mesopotamia, the area around the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers, is known as the "cradle of civilisation". Here developed a type of writing (and record keeping) known as "cuneiform" - shapes pressed into a wet clay block with a reed. Astrology began here with stargazers naming the constellations that we know today as the Zodiac. And that most basic of units we use each day - the 60 second minute and 60 minute hour - come from Babylonians using 60 as their unit of measure (like we use 10 today).
Why did this culture not develop as in Europe? Possibly because of the harsh climate, there was no possibility of growing any crop in quantities large enough to trade - the available water used to merely exist. Herds of sheep and goats which provided daily needs, surviving on the desert grasses.
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| Iranian desert |
One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World was The Hanging Gardens of Babylon. No doubt famous for the ingenuity required to build them out of the surrounding desert, as well as the welcoming sight. One stone relief in the exhibition shows a garden with water channels running through the flowering shrubs and trees.
Some suggest that the gardens were a myth. For anyone who has visited northern Africa or Middle Eastern countries, it is easy to see how the gardens could have existed. Lack of surface water brings out invention.
In 2009 we visited Iran. Except for a small area in the north, the country is desert. But the major cities have beautiful gardens in abundance. Some are now a little worse for wear thanks to lack of government funding (or interest). Maybe gardens are seen by the government as a reminder of the ostentation in Iran under the Shah pre the 1979 revolution.
The "Love and Devotion" exhibition is of illustrated manuscripts - miniature painting is still an art in Iran today. Most manuscripts show figures (usually lovers) relaxing in lush gardens. Or beautiful gardens are visible through palace windows. The stories or poems are usually along the age-old theme of love and loss. Apparently Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet is based on an ancient Persian story.
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| Bagh-e Eram gardens in Shiraz |
But the question is, in such a harsh climate, how were gardens possible and how did they survive?
In Iran most water flows in underground rivers. For centuries, engineers have built "qanats" - water tunnels built underground from the rivers to towns. Houses "tapped" into the qanats like using a well.
We visited beautiful gardens in Shiraz and Isfahan. Shiraz is home to several tombs of famous poets such as Sa'di and Hafez. Iranians love their poets and the tombs and surrounding gardens are very popular with families.
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| Normal dress for young women in Iran |
Iran is an easy place to travel light. Women need to cover up completely - no matter the weather! I found it quite liberating not having to worry about what I wore as long as it adhered to the dress code.
Most women on our tour had two outfits only and just alternated them.
The basic rules are loose pants, full length sleeves and headscarf. Look at the young women in the photo - that is how visitors are expected to dress. And look at the gardens! - these are in Isfahan.
One word of warning for women though - in Iran you are second class citizens. Men will ignore you and not speak to you even if you speak to them. (Excepting hotel staff etc)
Of all the places I have visited, Iran is the most fascinating. There is always something new and wonderful to see. The scenery is stunning - yes, even the desert! The people are the friendliest I have come across. And I always felt safe. More than you can say for a lot of western countries.
Light travelling!
Marie
