Travel to the Arctic

The number of tours/cruises available to the Arctic and Antarctic are rapidly increasing. It seems that this is the new travel frontier.
Of course, cruises through the Northwest Passage to Alaska and also along the coast of Norway, have been happening for a long time now.
But now travellers now want to see Iceland, Greenland and the northern lights.
And to see the northern lights you need to travel in the northern hemisphere winter.
We travelled to Churchill to see the polar bears, and then continued on to Alaska and up the famous Dalton Highway to the Arctic Circle to see the Aurora Borealis.
The polar bears migrate to the Churchill, Canada, area for only about 6 weeks a year as they wait for Hudson Bay to freeze over so they can go out to hunt seals.
Before that we spent a few days in each of New York, Montreal and Quebec.
That made for a very tricky situation for a cabin bag only trip!
The cities we visited late October and the polar bears early November - so we needed to be prepared for temperatures down to -30C.

The clothes list included: heavyweight woollen thermals, woollen skivvy, polar fleece sweater, thick polar fleece jacket with hood, down-filled vest and ski jacket. That's six layers on the top! The bottom layers included heavy weight woollen thermal leggings, thick polar fleece pants, waterproof overpants, long thick woollen sox and snow boots. All this plus mittens, woolen face/neck warmer, beanie and scarf.
Looking for a warm sweater in a shop, I was attended by a chap from Minnesota. He approved of my layers and said I would be fine. He said I would survive in Minnesota and if you can survive there the Arctic Circle is a breeze!

But for the cities we wanted a more urban look of course. I wore winter weight R M Williams cream coloured slacks plus leopard print boots. Added was a top for evening and pretty scarf.
We felt very pleased with ourselves when we were mistaken for locals on Montreal! So it goes to show you don't always have to look like a tourist!
Our bags were slightly over the 7kg limit (my boots weighed 1kg each!). We could have worn them through check-in but decided against it but had no issues. Of course we wore several of our layers but re-packed when we were in the lounge.

So don't be deterred when going to a cold country. It is quite manageable with a cabin bag. There might not be much variety in clothes but when you are in the Arctic no-one really cares!

Travel light!
Marie

Dallas/Fort Worth Remembered

Read an article the other day about the increasing size of Dallas/Fort Worth Airport in the US. It handles 58 million passengers a year, and it appears that it might overtake LAX in passenger numbers as it contimues to expand, with a new terminal being planned.

We travelled to Dallas a few years ago and remember the airport well. The train connection to Dallas which we had read about in our travel guide didn't actually exist. And if you haven't already arranged for a hotel shuttle to pick you up, the only option is to get a taxi. A lesson in checking these things out thoroughly.

The city of Dallas has few attractions - its main claim to fame being where JFK was assassinated in 1963 - something remembered by us baby boomers.

School Book Depository building on Dealey Plaza, Dallas, Texas

The School Book Depository building where Lee Harvey Oswald fired the fatal shots (if you don't believe in conspiracy theories!) now houses the Sixth Floor Museum. It covers events leading up to the assassination and second by second photos of JFK's last moments - a bit unsettling when you know the outcome.

The museum also addresses the official enquiry as well as the various conspiracy theories.

Outside at Dealey Plaza, crosses are painted on the road where the two shots hit Kennedy - a slightly gruesome touch. And of course there is the infamous "grassy knoll"!

We couldn't find the Conspiracy Museum - maybe closed? But did spend some time at the Kennedy Memorial - a simple monument but quite moving in a way.

Fort Worth is well worth a visit, even if you only go to the Stockyards National Historic District. The city was the major centre of livestock trading in the days of the "west" and this area is now home to small museums and shops selling anything to do with cowboys and the west. It is the place to buy a pair of cowboy boots!

Longhorn drive at the Stockyards, Fort Worth, Texas

Every day they drive a herd of longhorns down the main street, accompanied by settlers in their wagons and wearing period clothes. It is a lot of fun and those horns are sooo..... wide!

Later we  discovered there is a train to Dallas/FortWorth but it stops outside the airport boundary. After arriving passengers then have to wait for a shuttle bus to take them to the airport, where they then need to catch the bus that goes to their terminal - a lengthy process.

Loved the area though - well worth a visit - and, yes, everything does seem to be bigger in Texas!

Getting back to passengers - do you know the busiest airport in the world by passenger numbers?

Bet you didn't say Atlanta, with 92 million!! Some-one please let me know why!!


Light travelling!

Marie

To Scarf or Not To Scarf

In Imam Square, Esfahan, Iran

Soon I will be travelling to Egypt and the issue of appropriate dress arises - should I wear a scarf or not?
I am a great believer in observing the culture and customs of the countries I visit. However the issue of covering up in Islamic countries is a contentious one for western women.

A fellow traveller once told me she would never travel to a country where she was required to wear a scarf. This is a rather illogical view as she would have no doubt been happy to cover her shoulders to enter St Peters Basilica at The Vatican for instance. Or to not wear short shorts.

During a visit to a Russian Orthodox cathedral in Irkutsk, we were asked to cover our heads - some women were not happy about this but if they attended church at home, I'm sure they would have been modestly dressed.

Heck! Even at Royal Ascot's Royal Enclosure, womens' dresses must have shoulder straps no less than an inch (2.5cm) wide, must be no shorter than just above the knee etc...And I'm sure the ladies are very happy to comply!!

A few years ago I travelled through Iran where there is a very rigid dress code for women. Long pants and long sleeved tops must be loose, darker colours and a scarf must always be worn.
Strangely, I found this very liberating! What I was wearing, as long as it fitted the standard, seemed to be of no significance. And covered up my less than perfect body - a win win situation! The only problem was the heat - a scarf can be stifling in hot climates!

Combo! Scarf plus hat - hot but necessary!

Quite a few years ago I visited Morocco. The king is a bit more "westernised" than other muslim rulers. I didn't wear a jellaba or scarf. I noticed men stared at me a lot - probably because my very short hair was a bit of a novelty. Looking back, a scarf would have been a good idea.

And I'm not into the old argument about men shouldn't look etc etc - if you are in another country, observe their customs.

So, to scarf or not to scarf?

I will wear a scarf in Egypt because women in Egypt cover their heads. And with the change to an Islamic government there seems to have been a slight tightening of the dress code - a female television newsreader now wears a scarf whereas she did not before. Plus the recent protests against the west make not standing out a sensible idea.

So my trusty scarf will be in my bag again - hardly takes up any room or weight - and might just make the difference between an enjoyable holiday and one marred by anti-west sentiment.

Light travelling!

Marie

Open Your Mind and Really Experience the World!

Breakfast in nomad tent in Iran - shared by 11 men and women!

Recently I was talking with friends about travelling - what else!? - it seems to be the most popular topic amongst baby boomers!

One friend insisted that she would only stay in 4 or 5 star hotels when travelling.

I thought about that and wondered what sort of travelling experience she wanted, and why did she travel anyway if her view of the world was only going to be from a generic luxury hotel. And a lot of the world doesn't have luxury hotels! What experiences she would miss out on!
 
I remembered the places where I have slept over the years - on a mat on stony ground in a nomad tent in Iran, in a nomad ger on the Mongolian steppe, in a hut made from reeds in Botswana....

I remember a cheap 2 to 3 star hotel in St Petersburg - we preferred to climb up 3 flights of stairs to our room because the lift was dodgy, but it was a minute walk to The Hermitage - how good is that? Worth more than a fancy hotel room further away!

Our reed hut in Botswana - the bathroom is behind the screen!

Plus I have slept in any number of train cabins across Russia, America, Canada, and South Africa.

Although there might not have been much sleep due to discomfort, these are the experiences we remember and laugh about.

Don't get me wrong - I don't mind a bit of luxury. After leaving Iran we booked into the Hyatt in Dubai just to enjoy first class facilities, and a decent shower! And an alcoholic drink after not being allowed to drink in Iran! And we have stayed in some wonderful lodges whilst "on safari" - very welcome after a dusty day game viewing.

But to limit yourself to visiting places with only luxury hotels seems to be a very narrow view.  Plus there are a lot of laughs missed and funny stories to be told!

Light travelling!

Marie

Nomad ger in Mongolia - note satellite dish and solar panel!

Buying platform food on the Trans Siberian

Deserts and Gardens

Melbourne has two great exhibitions on at the moment - "Mesopotamia" at Melbourne Museum and "Love and Devotion: Persia and beyond" at the State Library of Victoria.

Mesopotamia, the area around the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers, is known as the "cradle of civilisation". Here developed a type of writing (and record keeping) known as "cuneiform" - shapes pressed into a wet clay block with a reed. Astrology began here with stargazers naming the constellations that we know today as the Zodiac. And that most basic of units we use each day - the 60 second minute and 60 minute hour - come from Babylonians using 60 as their unit of measure (like we use 10 today).

Why did this culture not develop as in Europe? Possibly because of the harsh climate, there was no possibility of growing any crop in quantities large enough to trade - the available water used to merely exist. Herds of sheep and goats which provided daily needs, surviving on the desert grasses.

Iranian desert

One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World was The Hanging Gardens of Babylon. No doubt famous for the ingenuity required to build them out of the surrounding desert, as well as the welcoming sight. One stone relief in the exhibition shows a garden with water channels running through the flowering shrubs and trees.

Some suggest that the gardens were a myth. For anyone who has visited northern Africa or Middle Eastern countries, it is easy to see how the gardens could have existed. Lack of surface water brings out invention.

In 2009 we visited Iran. Except for a small area in the north, the country is desert. But the major cities have beautiful gardens in abundance. Some are now a little worse for wear thanks to lack of government funding (or interest). Maybe gardens are seen by the government as a reminder of the ostentation in Iran under the Shah pre the 1979 revolution.

The "Love and Devotion" exhibition is of illustrated manuscripts - miniature painting is still an art in Iran today. Most manuscripts show figures (usually lovers) relaxing in lush gardens. Or beautiful gardens are visible through palace windows. The stories or poems are usually along the age-old theme of love and loss. Apparently Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet is based on an ancient Persian story.

Bagh-e Eram gardens in Shiraz

But the question is, in such a harsh climate, how were gardens possible and how did they survive?


In Iran most water flows in underground rivers. For centuries, engineers have built "qanats" - water tunnels built underground from the rivers to towns. Houses "tapped" into the qanats like using a well.

We visited beautiful gardens in Shiraz and Isfahan. Shiraz is home to several tombs of famous poets such as Sa'di and Hafez. Iranians love their poets and the tombs and surrounding gardens are very popular with families.

Normal dress for young women in Iran

Iran is an easy place to travel light. Women need to cover up completely - no matter the weather! I found it quite liberating not having to worry about what I wore as long as it adhered to the dress code.

Most women on our tour had two outfits only and just alternated them.

The basic rules are loose pants, full length sleeves and headscarf. Look at the young women in the photo - that is how visitors are expected to dress. And look at the gardens! - these are in Isfahan.

One word of warning for women though - in Iran you are second class citizens. Men will ignore you and not speak to you even if you speak to them. (Excepting hotel staff etc)

Of all the places I have visited, Iran is the most fascinating. There is always something new and wonderful to see. The scenery is stunning - yes, even the desert! The people are the friendliest I have come across. And I always felt safe. More than you can say for a lot of western countries.


Light travelling!

Marie

The Original Light Traveller

Did you assume that travelling light was a fairly recent phenomenon?

Well, it seems not!

I have just been to the "Grace Kelly: Style Icon" exhibition from the Victoria & Albert Museum,  showing at the Bendigo Art Gallery.

One display showed an issue of the April 1955 Women's Home Companion (an American magazine). It was opened at an interview with Grace Kelly and she gives her tips on travelling light. She wears an ensemble of tweed travel coat over a worsted suit of jacket and straight skirt and blouse with a big bow at the neck.

 Her coat could be worn over anything in her wardrobe, except evening wear. Sounds familiar doesn't it? And still great advice today!

Her aim was to avoid going over the 66lb (30kg) luggage limit!

So many points jump out at me.

Firstly, she was a Hollywood star - why would she worry about paying for a bit of excess luggage? Secondly, the outfit, while very elegant, looks just so uncomfortable. A tight woollen skirt on a flight across the Atlantic? - Hmmm.

And how have luggage regulations changed? - 30kg? Well I guess she would have been travelling First Class.

It all harks back to different times.


One thing that did resonate with me though, was that she always made a list of what to pack. That is the best travel tip ever, whether it is the 1950's or 2012.

So when you are wearing your trackies across the Pacific or wherever, carrying just cabin baggage, think about Grace Kelly, style icon of the twentieth century.

Light travelling!

Marie

Children and Air Travel

Summer holidays have finished and children are back to school. This means a lot of children have been flying in the last 6 weeks and the issue of their behaviour whilst flying is in the news again.

Parents need to ensure that children observe a few general courtesy rules such as not kicking the seat in front. However it is not easy to keep young ones entertained on a long haul flight. Books and games can amuse for only so long. It would be nice if planes had a small area where children could quietly play instead of being restricted in a seat - maybe take out the last couple of rows. But I guess seats means dollars.

Last year an airline put a ban on children in First Class. This might be a great solution for passengers but why don't airlines look at the underlying issue - WHY do children become disruptive?

When I first started flying in the 1970's, the cabin did not have the "rules" that exist today. The routine now is, after take-off a meal is served then the cabin lights are turned off and blinds closed. This system is in place whether departure is in the day or night. In the last few years I have made several flights ex Australia departing around midday. Turning off the lights is not an issue for me because I can watch movies or read or sleep. A child is not ready for sleep mid-afternoon but is expected to be silent and stay still. Try explaining to a toddler that all of a sudden they have to sleep. No wonder they are not happy - it's still daytime!

Why do airlines insist on this routine? Why can't cabin lights stay on and blinds stay up until it is "night" for the passengers' bodies and they are ready for sleep? Is it to make less work for the cabin crew? If they make us sleep, they don't have to provide service? Strangely, most airlines provide eye masks but not the conditions to use them!

Last year I flew from London to Hong Kong. The flight departed Heathrow at midday. After lunch, lights were out and blinds down. Despite the best efforts of the parents, the children behind me were unsettled and crying until the lights came on for the last couple of hours - then they did not make a sound and were happy!

Don't blame the children. Blame the intransigent airline policies.


Light travelling!

Marie


 PS I prefer children over drunks talking loudly and constantly going to and from the toilets!