To Scarf or Not To Scarf

In Imam Square, Esfahan, Iran

Soon I will be travelling to Egypt and the issue of appropriate dress arises - should I wear a scarf or not?
I am a great believer in observing the culture and customs of the countries I visit. However the issue of covering up in Islamic countries is a contentious one for western women.

A fellow traveller once told me she would never travel to a country where she was required to wear a scarf. This is a rather illogical view as she would have no doubt been happy to cover her shoulders to enter St Peters Basilica at The Vatican for instance. Or to not wear short shorts.

During a visit to a Russian Orthodox cathedral in Irkutsk, we were asked to cover our heads - some women were not happy about this but if they attended church at home, I'm sure they would have been modestly dressed.

Heck! Even at Royal Ascot's Royal Enclosure, womens' dresses must have shoulder straps no less than an inch (2.5cm) wide, must be no shorter than just above the knee etc...And I'm sure the ladies are very happy to comply!!

A few years ago I travelled through Iran where there is a very rigid dress code for women. Long pants and long sleeved tops must be loose, darker colours and a scarf must always be worn.
Strangely, I found this very liberating! What I was wearing, as long as it fitted the standard, seemed to be of no significance. And covered up my less than perfect body - a win win situation! The only problem was the heat - a scarf can be stifling in hot climates!

Combo! Scarf plus hat - hot but necessary!

Quite a few years ago I visited Morocco. The king is a bit more "westernised" than other muslim rulers. I didn't wear a jellaba or scarf. I noticed men stared at me a lot - probably because my very short hair was a bit of a novelty. Looking back, a scarf would have been a good idea.

And I'm not into the old argument about men shouldn't look etc etc - if you are in another country, observe their customs.

So, to scarf or not to scarf?

I will wear a scarf in Egypt because women in Egypt cover their heads. And with the change to an Islamic government there seems to have been a slight tightening of the dress code - a female television newsreader now wears a scarf whereas she did not before. Plus the recent protests against the west make not standing out a sensible idea.

So my trusty scarf will be in my bag again - hardly takes up any room or weight - and might just make the difference between an enjoyable holiday and one marred by anti-west sentiment.

Light travelling!

Marie